Candle Making Kit

It is clean-burning (minimal soot, unlike paraffin), holds fragrance well, and is renewable (soybean oil). Paraffin (the traditional petroleum wax) burns smoky and is a non-renewable; soy is the modern default for home and "clean burn" candles. Soy is softer (lower melt point), so it suits container candles; pillar candles need a harder wax blend.

The wick's thickness determines the melt pool (the liquid wax circle) — a too-small wick drowns in wax and tunnels (a hole down the middle); a too-large wick smokes and burns too hot. Match the wick to the jar's diameter (wicks are sized for a candle width). The right wick makes a full melt pool (edge to edge) without smoking — the whole craft.

The percentage of fragrance oil in the wax — typically 6-10% for soy (more and the wax "sweats" oil). Too little and the candle is faint; too much and the oil separates. The fragrance must bind to the wax at the right temperature (add at 185F, stir two minutes); pour at 135F. The fragrance load and the binding are the scent's strength.

The pour temperature affects the top finish — pour too hot and the wax shrinks and sinks (a rough top); pour at about 135F (for soy) and the top is smooth. Cool slowly (room temp, no drafts) to avoid sinkholes and frosting. The pour temperature and the cool environment are the smooth-top recipe; a rough top is a pour-temp problem.