The advanced pyrographer works in full tonal range and adds color. A wire-tip burner (the pro tool — finer, hotter, faster than a solid-point), a full shading tip set (a spoon shader, a flat shader, a writing tip), wood-burning-colored pencils and a sealer, and larger basswood rounds and boxes. The shading tip (not the writing tip) is where the depth comes from.
Plans
Choose a plan that fits your needs and budget
Item List
4Finish
2 itemsPro Tool
2 itemsFAQ
Common questions about this kit
Why a wire-tip burner?
The pro tool — a transformer that heats fine wire tips to high, precise temperatures instantly (solid-point pens are slower and coarser). Wire tips make finer lines and cleaner shading, and the tips are cheap to make and replace. The wire-tip burner is the jump from "craft" to "art," and the tool serious pyrographers upgrade to.
Why a spoon shader?
A rounded shading tip that lays down a smooth, even gradient (not the dotted texture of a solid point) — it is how you build the tonal depth that makes a burn look like a photograph. The writing tip is for lines; the shader is for shading; the rounded shader is for soft curves. Match the tip to the mark.
Can I add color?
Yes — colored pencils (or watercolor pencils) over the burn add subtle color that the brown burn cannot, and a sealer locks it in. The burn provides the value (the dark/light structure); the pencil provides the hue. It is a popular finishing technique; seal the work (polyurethane or wax) to protect both the burn and the color.
How do I protect the finished piece?
A finish — wax (the matte, hand-rubbed look), polyurethane (the durable, water-resistant clear), or oil — seals the wood and the burn against moisture, UV, and handling. Unsealed, a burn can fade and the wood can dirty. The finish is the last 10% that makes the piece last; do not skip it.
User Reviews
The wire-tip burner and my forge share the heat-is-the-shade gospel — the temperature-makes-the-dark is the cherry-red-makes-the-hard. The pro-tool-upgrade is the same jump, agreed.