Roller derby is full-contact on eight wheels — the jammer fights through the pack, the blockers hold the wall. A pair of derby-grade quad skates (not recreational skates — they cannot take the abuse), full safety (helmet, knee/elbow/wrist guards, mouthguard), and derby wheels matched to your floor. Fresh-meat training is mandatory; you do not bout until you can fall safely.
Plans
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Item List
4Safety
2 itemsSkates & Wheels
2 itemsFAQ
Common questions about this kit
Why derby-grade skates?
Recreational quad skates break under derby's lateral force, hits, and falls. Derby skates have a stiff boot, an aluminum plate, and replaceable, grippy wheels built for the abuse. They are an investment, but a recreational skate will fail and injure you within a season. Buy derby-grade from the start.
What wheels for what floor?
Harder wheels (95A+) for slippery sport-court (the common derby floor); softer (88-92A) for grippy concrete or wood. The wrong wheel slips or sticks. Most fresh meat start on a mid-hardness (93A) and tune from there. Borrow a teammate's wheels to test before you buy.
Why a mouthguard in a skating sport?
Falls and elbows to the face are common in the pack; a mouthguard protects the teeth and the jaw (and reduces concussion). It is mandatory in WFTDA rules. A cheap boil-and-bite works; a custom one is more comfortable and lets you talk. No mouthguard, no bout.
What is fresh meat?
The beginner training program every league runs — weeks of falling safely, stopping, skating in a pack, and the rules before you ever bout. It is mandatory because derby is dangerous without the fundamentals. You earn your way onto the roster through fresh meat, and the skills (especially the falls) keep you uninjured when you get there.
User Reviews
Roller derby and my masters swim share the full-safety-non-negotiable gospel — helmet and pads is cap and goggles, and the fresh-meat-training-first is the lane-etiquette-first. The mouthguard is the nose-clip, agreed.